Seymour Duncan Apollo Jazz Bass Pickup - 4-String Bridge Position for Enhanced Tone & Clarity | Perfect for Jazz, Blues & Rock Bassists | Studio & Live Performance Ready

I put this in my Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass which has a P/J configuration (P-bass pickup at the neck, Jazz bass pickup at the bridge.) The original Squier pickups were lacking, especially the jazz bass bridge pickup, it sounded very thin and could be used in combination with the p-bass pickup for good results but alone was almost unusable, had no bottom end at all, etc. After a little research on Seymour Duncan's website, listening to tone samples from their jazz bass pickups as well as ones from Lindy Fralin, EMG, and DiMarzio, I decided on the Apollo for my bass because of the awesome tone (there's a demo Seymour Duncan made and put on youtube and their website for this pickup where they showed each pickup alone, since I was looking for just the bridge pickup this was very helpful) and the tone was awesome, like a traditional Fender jazz bass with a little extra fullness, warmth, and clarity. I also love the fact that they're linear split coil which retains the single coil sound but completely eliminates the hum and noise problems of single coil jazz pickups, so I can solo the jazz pickup and not have the crazy amount of noise that came from the stock Squier jazz pickup. I can now use the jazz bridge pickup by itself and get all sorts of awesome sounds that were never possible with the stock pickup, and I've been experimenting with different tones so it's added new aspects to my playing style. Like I said earlier, the Squier jazz pickup on the bridge was almost completely unusable by itself but once I threw this on it was so full. Seymour Duncan's website describes the Apollos as having a very slightly hotter-wound bridge pickup in the Apollo set to make up for the fact that there is less volume from the strings at the bridge, which a lot of jazz basses (even the nice American ones) have issues with the neck and bridge pickup having equal output and each pickup having different output levels on each string. Seymour Duncan solved both issues and the 2 inside pole pieces for the A and D srrings are very slightly raised to account for the radius of the strings matching the fretboard radius when the bass is properly set up, which makes each string balanced with one another.One tip, if you have a bass with 2 pickups like a standard jazz bass or one with a P-bass pickup on the neck and a jazz bass bridge pickup like I do, replacing only one pickup will make the 2 pickups out of phase with each other, essentially meaning you can use either pickup alone with great results but trying to use them together leads to volume loss and a hollow, nasally sound. This is fixed by either switching the polarity of either pickup, which involves swapping a wire (didn't go that route so I'm not sure) or replacing the other pickup with one from the same brand that is meant to go with the other one. With Seymour Duncan, if you have a jazz bass with 2 jazz pickups then getting the neck and bridge versions (which can come in a set or individually, same price) will be in phase with each other, and if you have a P-J bass like me then you can replace the p-bass pickup with any Seymour Duncan bridge pickup and they will be in phase, this is what I did, I put a Seymour Duncan SPB-1 Vintage P-Bass pickup in the neck and now I have 2 amazing sounding pickups which sound awesome when used alone or together. I'm not 100% sure if their p-bass pickups will work with a neck jazz pickup (some PJ basses, and even a lot of jazz bass setups with 2 jazz pickups use a neck-sized pickup at the bridge, usually the bridge jazz pickup is slightly longer than the neck pickup, so measure and check, or look online, and email Seymour Duncan and ask and they will help you. If your bass takes a neck-sized pickup but you still want the pickup that is voiced to sound better at the bridge then ask Seymour Duncan and they can do it for you for no extra charge usually.)Good luck, and if anyone has questions about upgrading your bass I'd be happy to help if you email me. My current Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar bass is turning out to be a fun project; I installed: the Seymour Duncan Apollo Jazz bass bridge pickup, the S.D. SPB-1 Vintage P-bass pickup in the neck position, a new, real bone nut which sounds slightly better (not a big difference tonally but it's there if you listen side by side) but more importantly helps the bass stay in tune longer and the bone nut will last way longer than the plastic one Squiers come with,) I put a new Switchcraft output jack (top of the line, USA made, less than $10 and will last forever, a must for gigging or recording players) in cause the stock one was starting to crackle when my cord moved and was getting looser every week, I bought a thumbrest for a few dollars on Amazon which was an actual Fender brand thumbrest just like the vintage P-basses and Jazz basses had, I also ordered Hipshot HB7 tuners which have a 27:1 ratio for very fine tuning and staying in tune longer, those tuners should be here today, and I ordered a Gotoh bridge for it (not the 201 but another Jazz bass bridge, couldn't find a model # but I got it on Amazon for about $60, you can get bridges for about $40 from Gotoh, hipshot, or others which are a huge improvement to the Squier bridges, more mass=better sustain and better tone like the current high-mass bridges you'd get on an American Fender (but not a Mexican one or a Squier) and it also has finer adjustments for intonation and saddle height, and the saddle height screws are in little tracks for more stability. The stock Squier bridge is very unstable and each string saddle can be moved side to side even when the strings are under full tension when tuned fully, which throws the intonation and tuning and even string action off. It wasn't always this unstable but over time it has become quite unstable, the Squiers just aren't built to last like an American Fender is, but if you upgrade the bridge, tuners, nut, and output jack (get a Switchcraft output jack, they're made in USA, built to last forever, and are about $5 for a standard one or $10 for mine since mine is a flush fit jack which is longer and different than standard guitar/bass output jacks. Gigging musicians even put these Switchcraft jacks into American Fenders to ensure they'll last forever and never get crackly or lose connection.) Upgrade those things and you'll have an extremely high quality instrument that will last you forever and will feel awesome. Upgrade the pickups if you want it to sound like a several thousand dollar boutique bass. If you get the right tuners (Hipshot,) bridge (Gotoh or Hipshot are the best,) the nut (any that are real bone or a self-lubricating graphtech one, just make sure the slots are cut correctly, I did mine myself but take it to a pro if you're unsure) your instrument will feel and play SO much better from just the nut, bridge, and tuners, will hold a tune extremely well, will tune much easier with the higher ratio so that the needle on your tuner doesn't do a big jump with the smallest little turn on the tuner like it does on the low ratio Squier tuners) and the Switchcraft output jack is a must for Squiers as their jacks will go bad at the worst time. All in all my bass already plays like a brand new very expensive bass and what I've replaced is better than what comes on an American Made Fender bass, and once I get the chrome (or nickel? I forget) plated brass high-mass Gotoh bridge and the Hipshot tuners in and get them on the bass I'll comfortably say this Squier is completely built up stronger and better than an American Fender.I loved the Squier V.M. Jaguar bass so this made sense to me, it won't make sense to everyone. Squiers are Fenders but where they make them cheaper is the tuners, nut, bridge, pickups/electronics (although I'm happy with my active circuit in here and don't see a need to replace the pots like people do with passive Squiers), and sometimes the frets stick out on the neck and hurt your hand as you play on the cheapest Squiers but mine came with the frets rounded on the neck perfectly, if yours aren't just file them with a nail file for a few dollars with multiple grains, going from rough to smooth, and oil your fretboard with some Linseed oil (NOT LEMON OIL! Don't use lemon oil on a fretboard ever!)